Riesling: Marlborough’s Unsung Hero

When it comes to Riesling, the Germans have long been onto a good thing.

The first known written reference to the drop was in 1402, termed then as ‘Rüssling, in the city of Worms, Germany.

It’s no wonder, then, that German winemakers are a source of inspiration for one of Marlborough’s avid Riesling producers, Framingham Wines.

The company has been growing Riesling at the Wairau Valley Estate since 1981 and winemaker Andrew Brown says he and his colleagues can be described as a team of Riesling enthusiasts, aka, geeks.

“Framingham’s  Riesling profile has been forged over the years because of those [Riesling] vines, people have come and gone but they have been the constant,” he says.

Individual Rieslings made by the Framingham team are very much led by vintage conditions each year. 

“We make styles from dry to uber sweet, and we get a lot of our inspiration from German styles, because they are the masters,” Andrew says.

“Every year, we will look at the fruit and assess what we want to have a crack at stylistically if the opportunity presents itself … it’s versatility is a real draw card and it’s also a lot of work!” 

The task is made easier by a viticulture team well qualified to tend to the vines, led by viticulturist James Bowskill who has spent a decade learning what the forty-year-old vines respond to.

“In any given season we have a fair idea how they are going to respond to different vintage conditions, and being a small and agile team we are able to react accordingly,” Andrew says. 

The vineyard itself is low in fertility, contributing toward vines with low vigour and yields, and ultimately to the concentrated flavour of the wines.

“Marlborough Riesling is another example of how this region is able to harness vivid varietal expression,” Andrew says.

Te Whare Ra owner and winemaker Anna Flowerday agrees, saying Riesling is one of the unsung heroes of Marlborough wine.

Home to Marlborough’s oldest Riesling vines, the original block was planted by the company in 1979, and Anna and husband Jason now make two to three Rieslings per vintage.

“[Riesling] is super interesting because it’s so versatile. There is so much style diversity, you could make 10 different Rieslings, if you wanted; we like the versatility and the flexibility of it,” Anna says. 

Like with many Marlborough wines, the region’s climate, characterised by long sunshine hours and cooler nights, lends itself well to growing Riesling, aiding with the maintenance of natural acidity in the fruit.

“Riesling suits similar conditions to Sauvignon Blanc,” Anna says.

Te Whare Ra’s two main Rieslings, Riesling D, a dry style, and Riesling M, a medium-dry style, are made using grapes from different plantings on the home block. Riesling D is made using grapes from the original planting, and Riesling M using fruit from slightly younger vines.

Described by Anna as a wine often only really appreciated by ‘wine geeks’, or enthusiasts, she encourages people to have a go at finding a riesling style they like.

“Its biggest issue is that a lot of people are afraid of it … we have a bit of a joke in the cellar door, I say I’m locking the door until you’ve all tried at least one Riesling; we’re on a two person crusade to convert people and show them how great it is,” she says. 

“There’s a lot to look for, and it takes a bit of finding out what you like.”

Regardless of preferred style, most rieslings make amazing food wines, Anna says.

She suggests trying dry styles with clams, oysters, or ‘anything you might squeeze a lemon on’, similar foods to those you’d pair with sparkling wines.

Medium-dry or medium-sweet wines are more suited to asian style dishes, often with a touch of chilli and/or ginger.

Andrew recommends trying Riesling as an accompaniment to pork, or pork and shrimp dumplings.

Riesling Day takes place on Sunday, March 13. Will you be raising a glass to the occasion?